The GreenModule 02
Beginner

Equipment & the Green

Learn about bowls, bias, the jack, and how to choose your equipment before stepping onto the rink.

4Lessons
~45 minReading time
4 QuizzesKnowledge checks
Lesson 2.1

Anatomy of a Bowl — Bias Explained

A lawn bowl is not a perfect sphere. It is deliberately manufactured with an asymmetric shape — one side is slightly flatter than the other — which causes the bowl to curve as it slows down. This built-in curve is called the bias.

The bias side of the bowl is marked with a small disc or circle. When you deliver a bowl, the bias side always curves toward the ground — meaning the bowl will always curve toward the side you place facing down at delivery.

A bowl curves because of its asymmetric shape — the bias side curves inward as the bowl slows

Bias is measured on a scale. Narrow bias bowls curve less and travel on a straighter path — better for slower greens or beginners who want more predictability. Wide bias bowls curve significantly — preferred by experienced players and on faster greens where the bowl has more time to curve.

Key Point

On slower greens, narrow bias bowls are often easier to control because the bowl doesn't travel far enough for a wide bias to fully develop. On faster greens, the extra time of travel means wider bias bowls are very common at competition level.

The bias is tested and stamped by World Bowls to ensure it meets a minimum standard. You'll see a World Bowls stamp or sticker on approved bowls. Always check for this when purchasing second-hand bowls.

Lesson 2.1 Quiz
What causes a lawn bowl to curve during its travel?
A
The spin applied at delivery
B
The bowl's asymmetric shape (bias)
C
The slope of the green
D
Wind resistance
Correct! The bowl's asymmetric shape — its bias — causes it to curve as it slows. The bias side faces down at delivery, dictating the direction of curve.
Not quite. While spin, slope and wind can have minor effects, the primary cause of a bowl's curve is its built-in asymmetric shape, called the bias.
Lesson 2.2

Choosing the Right Size & Weight

Bowls come in sizes from 00 (smallest) to 6 (largest), though most adult players use sizes 2 to 5. The right size is one you can comfortably hold without straining — your middle finger should just reach around the running surface with your thumb resting naturally on top.

1
The grip test
Hold a bowl in your preferred grip. Your middle fingers should wrap around the running surface and meet your thumb comfortably. If you have to grip tightly, go down a size.
2
The swing test
Swing the bowl in your delivery arc. It should feel like a natural extension of your arm, not a strain on your wrist. A bowl that is too heavy will affect your timing and consistency.
3
The drop test
Hold the bowl at arm's length and release it. A correctly sized bowl should fall cleanly without slipping before the release point.

Weight matters too. Heavier bowls hold their line better on windy days and carry momentum well on slow greens. Lighter bowls are easier to control for players with less upper body strength, especially on fast greens where less effort is needed.

Beginner's Tip

Most clubs have a set of "trial" bowls in various sizes. Spend time with several before buying. A good club coach will help you identify the right size — don't rush this decision, as it will affect your game for years.

Lesson 2.2 Quiz
When testing bowl size, your grip should feel:
A
Tight and fully controlled at all times
B
Comfortable, with fingers wrapping the running surface naturally
C
Loose, to allow a free release
D
Challenging — you should need to work to hold it
Correct! Your fingers should wrap the running surface comfortably without strain. If you're gripping hard just to hold it, the bowl is too large.
Not quite. The correct grip should feel natural and relaxed. If you're straining to hold the bowl, it's too large for your hand.
Lesson 2.3

Understanding the Green & Rink Markings

The playing surface in lawn bowls is called the green — a large, flat, finely maintained area of grass (or carpet indoors). The green is divided into sections called rinks, and each game is played within the boundaries of a single rink.

FeatureDescription
GreenThe entire playing area, typically 31–40 metres square
RinkA lane within the green, approximately 4.3–5.8 metres wide
Centre lineThe line down the middle of the rink where the mat is placed
Boundary pegs/stringsMark the edges of the rink; bowls outside are dead
Dead ball lineThe line at each end beyond which the jack is dead
T-lineA line at each end marking the minimum jack position

Multiple rinks run parallel across the green, allowing several games to be played simultaneously. You are only allowed to bowl within the marked boundaries of your rink — any bowl that travels outside the rink boundary, or past the far end, is considered dead and is removed from play.

"The green is not just turf — it is a living surface that changes by hour and season, demanding respect and attentiveness from every player."

Lesson 2.3 Quiz
What happens to a bowl that crosses the rink boundary string during play?
A
It scores double points
B
It can be retrieved and replayed
C
It is declared dead and removed from play
D
It counts but with a one-point penalty
Correct! Any bowl that goes outside the rink boundary is declared dead and removed from the head. It does not score.
Not quite. A bowl crossing the rink boundary is declared dead — it is removed from play and takes no further part in that end.
Lesson 2.4

The Jack, the Mat, and the Ditch

Three key pieces of equipment define the shape of every end: the mat, the jack, and the ditch.

🟫
The Mat
A rubber rectangle placed on the centre line. Both feet must be fully on the mat when delivering. The mat can be placed anywhere along the centre line within set limits, giving the lead player strategic options each end.
The Jack
The small white target ball, approximately 63mm in diameter and 280g. It must be rolled at least 23 metres from the mat and must come to rest within the rink boundary. If the jack is rolled into the ditch, the end is replayed.
📐
The Ditch
A channel approximately 50–200mm deep running around the perimeter of the green. Bowls that reach the ditch are generally dead and removed from play. However, a bowl that touched the jack before entering the ditch is called a "toucher" and remains live.
Touchers — A Critical Exception

A toucher is a bowl that physically touched the jack during its delivery. Touchers are marked with chalk and remain live even if they end up in the ditch. This is one of the most important rules to remember, as a toucher in the ditch can still count as the shot bowl.

MatJackDitchToucherDead Bowl
Lesson 2.4 Quiz
A "toucher" in lawn bowls refers to:
A
A bowl that gently nudges another bowl
B
The closest bowl to the jack
C
A bowl that made contact with the jack during delivery
D
A bowl that brushes the rink boundary
Correct! A toucher is any bowl that touched the jack during its delivery. It remains live even in the ditch and is marked with chalk.
Not quite. A toucher is specifically a bowl that made contact with the jack during its delivery. These bowls are marked with chalk and remain live even if they end in the ditch.